Kenya | March 2026

Kenya hits you in pieces, not all at once. In a blur of Nairobi traffic as matatus roll by, or in the sound of Mara clay-soil mud squishing beneath your boots. Sunshine on your hair, the smell of sweet grass on the wind. And then the sunsets, those magnificent fiery skies that stretch on forever while the evening bird chorus sings the day away. Kenya seeps in. You feel it in your bones.

We began our adventure with two nights in Nairobi at the Tamarind Tree Hotel, a quiet corner away from the city’s chaos. For people like me, who spend most of their time in wild places, the big city often feels like an alien world. Our first day took us to the Karen Blixen Museum, where the old coffee homestead still whispers stories of a different time. The guests and I were delighted to find a hyrax living inside an old coffee drying drum. There was something about seeing an elephant’s cousin set against a backdrop of espresso beans that told me this adventure was starting off with the right tone.

And, of course, if you’re in Nairobi, dinner at Carnivore is a must. This restaurant is famed for its endless supply of meats, and by the end of your meal, you literally surrender your flag to the staff. Chefs carve meat straight from the braai onto your plate while you sip a Dawa, “good medicine,” they insist, and try not to make eye contact with the vervet monkeys on the roof just above you. It’s loud, chaotic, and full of energy.

We then packed our bags and flew into the Mara Triangle in a single-engine Cessna Caravan, the only way to enter such an epic and iconic landscape. The hills flatten, the colors spread, and slowly cities and farms fade as the Mara quietly stretches beneath you. Endless plains are punctuated by acacia trees, rivers, and the occasional dot of wildlife. From the air, you can even see where the Mara gets its name. In the local Maasai Maa language, Mara means “spotted” or “dotted,” for its patchwork of grass, trees, and shadows like a leopard’s coat.

Upon landing on the dirt airstrip, we were immediately greeted by crowned cranes, cheetahs, and elephants, a spectacular welcome. We settled into Mara Elatia Camp, tucked into the hills of the Mara Triangle. From our vantage point overlooking the valley, the guests could hear distant animal calls while thunderstorms rolled by at eye level with soaring eagles.

Our days moved in rhythm with long drives, slow observation, and packed lunches so we could remain immersed in this wild place. Our tenacity was rewarded with abundant wildlife sightings.

On our first day, we came upon a pride of lions in the midst of a buffalo feast. The guests won’t soon forget the crunch of bones and the low growls of the cats, it’s a scene that etches itself into memory. Everywhere you look on the Mara, something is happening: troops of baboons foraging under one tree, a secretary bird stalking snakes on a nearby hill, and a surprising midday hippo strolling down the middle of the road.

We were especially delighted to encounter black rhino. Many guests familiar with Southern Africa understood the rarity of seeing a mother and her calf in such a relaxed, unstressed environment. It naturally sparked conversations about rhino conservation, an essential focus of the trips I lead with PaintedDog Safaris.

The Mara River, swollen from early seasonal rains, was a force to behold. Watching it churn through the plains, it’s impossible not to feel the scale of this ecosystem and the power that keeps everything moving. One afternoon, we drove along the Tanzanian border, looking out over the Serengeti. No fences. No lines. Just unbroken space. It makes you feel very small and very alive.

These guests were photographers, and long hours in the bush allowed them to capture every moment. Hippos quickly became a favorite subject, with trying to catch one mid-yawn becoming a highlight of the itinerary.

After four nights at Elatia, we shifted camps. Persistent nighttime thunderstorms had rendered the roads impassable, but after coordinating with the camp manager, I secured complementary flights across the Mara. Flying again, the guests marveled at the wet, vibrant landscape below. Herds of Thomson’s gazelle and topi stretched across the plains, flocks of vultures circled at eye level, and the Mara seemed impossibly alive.

Arriving at Mara Intrepids felt like stepping into a storybook. The staff greeted us in traditional Maasai regalia with song and dance, immediately welcoming us into this slice of Mara paradise. Set along the Talek River, the camp hums with constant, subtle life. Tropical plants line the walkways, birds dart between branches, and insects carry the rhythm of the bush. The blend of old-world charm and modern comfort makes this a place you could linger forever.

Lions were everywhere. Multiple prides moved and interacted in fascinating dynamics. A new pride crossed the Talek and challenged an older pride for territory. The newcomers were mostly females and youngsters, while the males kept their distance. Each day, we returned to witness hunts unfold and the intricate choreography of pride life.

Elephants passed through camp as if we weren’t even there, and birds filled the air with movement and song. The bush felt alive at all times, quietly demanding your attention.

Far and away the highlight of the safari came with witnessing a complete cheetah hunt. We had just crossed a fairly raging river when we spotted a cheetah on a termite mound. He darted into the bush with perfect positioning, the wind in his favor, leaving an unsuspecting impala unaware. We tracked him until, with a sudden explosion of speed, he emerged from the bush and secured his meal. The look of satisfaction was unmistakable. It’s never easy watching a hunt, but we were privileged to witness this rare, successful moment in the wild.

We also visited a local Maasai village. The welcome was warm, direct, and grounding. The villagers showed us their homes, cattle, and daily routines, while explaining their efforts to fund a school for the next generation. It was a clear window into a life deeply connected to the land, the animals, and long-standing traditions. Perspectives no animal sighting alone could provide.

All too soon, it was time to return to Nairobi. Guests often find themselves disoriented at the end of a safari, their minds and hearts attuned to the rhythm of bush life, only to be pulled back into the city. On our final day, we visited the National Museum of Kenya to deepen our understanding of this remarkable country. From wildlife to technology to ancient human fossils, the museum offers endless stories. Seeing Turkana Boy, one of the most complete Homo erectus skeletons ever discovered, was a particular highlight.

By the end of the safari, it wasn’t just the lions, elephants, or giraffes that lingered, it was the rhythm. The dust in your boots. The golden light at dawn. The Mara teaching you quietly what it means to exist in a wild place indifferent to your schedule.

Kenya Safari Report, March 2026, by Alex Colburn.